“I met her in a tango bar …” It’s the stuff of stories,
plays and films, these tango bars where dancers pivot between the tables and
dangerous liaisons form in the clouds of cigarette smoke. Sadly (or maybe not)
the tango bar is almost entirely a product of fiction. Yes, there may be a bar
at a tango club, but when the dancers are dancing they tend to take over the
place, and, after the first couple of collisions, dancing round the tables is
less fun than it sounds. But the idea still has a romantic appeal. What if you
retreated from the rain and found yourself in a bar where people were just
getting up and dancing. Can you imagine it?
Imagine no longer, for such a bar exists – and conveniently
to hand near London’s Liverpool Street station. Theatre Delicatessen is at 2
Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PA. It’s a regular cafe bar, serving coffee, sandwiches
and both alcoholic and soft drinks. Prices are what you would expect in this
part of the world, but the toasted sandwiches are good and the staff are
friendly. So far, so normal. But at 7.30 on a Tuesday night, the lights go down,
tango music starts playing and gradually people get up and start to dance. By
nine o’clock the dancers outnumber the drinkers, but it remains a regular bar
with people sitting and watching. There are studio rooms off the café space, so
every so often, as one sort of class or another ends, people flood into the
room and stop and stare. There is even someone wheeling a bicycle across the
dance floor. It’s a milonga (tango dance party) but in a space that is
definitely not reserved for dancers.
Somewhere around ten o’clock, Alfredo Martin Espindola starts singing sad country tango songs to his
guitar and the dancers pause and then translate his singing into movement and
the people come and go and the bar staff serve, quietly but efficiently, and
Spaniards explain the lyrics and, outside, it starts to rain. It’s a tango bar.
It’s definitely worth a visit.
For me, the
atmosphere was quite a change from the rather intense milongas that I’m used to.
There was rather more talking and rather less dancing. The place is open until
11.00, so there’s no rush. Have a chat. Have a drink. Take a turn or two around
the floor.
As far as dancing
goes, the place works well. Tables are pushed back, so you have room to dance.
The floor was usually busy, but not over-crowded. (The photo was taken at the end
of the evening as it got quieter.) The sound system is good and there wasn’t
too much background noise from the bar. In fact, if anything, the place was on
the quiet side, without the buzz you often get at a milonga. It was definitely
a chilled Tuesday evening rather than a lively weekend feel. Inevitably, but
with some justification, women complained of a shortage of men.
The floor is some
sort of lino-type tiling, easy enough to move on, but you have to take care where
the tiles are not perfectly level, so you can trip on the joins. The dancers
all knew what they were doing and the line of dance moved easily round the
floor.
Red Room Tango is never going to be the highlight of the
week, but for an after-work venue on a Tuesday, it hits the spot really well.
And if you fancy watching some dancers while you enjoy an early-evening beer,
it’s somewhere you should definitely consider. It’s a tango bar (but without the
cigarette smoke). What’s not to like?
Sounds lovely!
ReplyDeleteAmazing! A well-crafted description! Shame I could not join you in the Tango Bar adventure during the rain, but I feel like I have been there with you...
ReplyDeleteThis week's milonga is advertised to start at 8.00. There is a beginner lesson (not free) from 7.00. Martin will again be providing some live music.
ReplyDelete